DAY 64: Crackington Haven to Camelford – 12.70 miles
Waking up in this cosy hotel room by the ocean with the sun finally shining… it doesn’t get much better than that! On paper I didn’t have far to go today but after another full breakfast it was still difficult to get moving… And then – already forgetting what my body had worked out yesterday – I automatically gravitated across the road and back onto the coastal track. It’s difficult knowing full well that the path is going to take longer and knacker me out even more, but the opportunity to walk around the coast on a day like today was just too enticing. And with the blue sky above and sun glinting off the sea, the coastline was even more stunning than yesterday.
I followed this beautiful path for a couple of hours before again coming to the same conclusions that I was getting way too tired but not really going anywhere. Joining the road just short of Boscastle, I then stumbled across the Boscastle Farm Shop and Cafe, which I had heard some people at breakfast this morning raving about. And for good reason… It was hard to make it past the deli counter and then bypass the cake selection, but still full up from breakfast I opted for a pot of tea, which I had to drink outside as inside was completely packed. Grabbing a take away piece of homemade quiche for later, I reluctantly got going again sticking to the road until Boscastle town centre before heading inland from there.
As has been the case on this whole trip, my route is largely set by where I can find the cheap accommodation. And on this sometimes sparse but often expensive Cornish coast line, the only reasonable room I could find in this next section was inland at a place called Camelford. To reach Camelford I had to walk some serious inclines to get away from the coast – made more bearable by stopping to eat my farm shop quiche, which was without doubt the best I have ever tasted! Finally arriving at Camelford and the quirky Countryman Hotel I was welcomed in by Mick, who immediately gave me a book on Lands End to John O’Groats to read, showed me to my room, checked everything works (it was touch and go whether anything would!) and then left me to it. Not massively hungry but wanting something, I ventured the few feet down the road to pick up a portion of pork ribs from the Chinese and then back to my little room to wiggle the TV aerial all night so I could watch one of the 5 available channels.